Nav:HOME ---- Travel Articles and Tips ---- A First Timer's Guide to Maui Hawaii (YOU ARE HERE)
Nav:HOME ---- Travel Articles and Tips ---- A First Timer's Guide to Maui Hawaii (YOU ARE HERE)
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The island of Maui, Hawaii is in the HAST time zone (Hawaii-Aleutian Standard Time, GMT-10hrs) no daylight savings time. It is the middle of the Hawaiian chain of islands, almost about a third of the way to Japan from California, in the Tropic of Cancer at about the same lattitude as the Yucatan in Mexico or central India. A 5.5 hr flight from LAX (Los Angeles CA Intl Airport ) to OGG (Kahului Maui HI Airport). It is formed from dormant volcanos, leaving fertile red and black soil, rocks and sand. There are two mountain ranges, the West Maui Mountains, and Haleakala, and many plains and beaches and forests around and between them. Haleakala peak is the highest point at just over 10,000ft. Cities on Maui include Kahului (primary port and airport) between the ranges, Lahaina in the northwest, Hana in the southeast, and lots of cities and towns in between (see below).
Aloha means a friendly Hello or friendly Goodbye. All the people we ran into were very friendly and helpful. Respect for visitors and hospitality are Hawaiian core values (as they are in my area too), and they live them. Maui Hawaiians are also not afraid to pray in the ways they each believe in. The Islands are melting pots of cultures, and this is reflected in a great diversity of food and thought. Fishing is also a core Hawiian value, and agriculture is deeply reflected in many ways (just like in my neck of the woods). If you like fresh fruits, seafood, meats, and vegies, presented in many interesting ways, you have paradise. Look around you once in Hawaii and the weather and landscape will confirm the wonderful experience you are embarking upon.
Flowers have meaning for you, ladies: If you are a lady who wears a flower on your head, know the meaning of placement, species, and size. Hawaiian culture gave women great power in male selection, and it still holds in many circles in modern Hawaii. A flower in the right ear means you are single and might date. A flower in the left ear means you are married/going steady/unavailable (i.e. like a wedding or engagement ring). Those two are common knowledge, but you need to know these also: a flower in the top means you are actively looking, placing one on the back of the head means 'come hither, follow me now, ask no questions!' to the male at your back or side. The bigger the flower, the more emphatic the meaning.
Language:Do yourself a big favor and pick up a few core words in the Hawaiian tongue, especially Aloha (many meanings but hello and goodbye are the majors), Mahalo (thank you), and very key Kane and Wahine (Man or boy and woman or girl respecitively...or else you might have issues locating the privy), maybe kiki (child). Some core names for fish are important too: Ono (Wahoo), Mahi (dorado, dolphin-fish), Ahi (tuna, esp. yellowfin), Opakapaka (Pink snapper, looks like a vermilion snapper), Humuhumunukunukuapua'a (humu for short, usually reef/wedgetail/picasso triggerfish, the state fish), ulua (jacks, esp. Bluefin and Giant Trevally), and many others. Maui fyi means 'Valley Island', for a reason, as there are many valleys from rainforest to desert. I found the book The Hawaiian Word Book very useful.
Also, listen local, KPOA 93.5 FM radio was our fav!
If you are a visitor, it also pays to steer clear of Hawaiian politics...leave that at home. Best to learn, don't opine. You are here to have fun after all, and visitors also owe respect to those they visit, in Hawaii, Missouri, or Timbuktu. Humility helps, and a stuck up nose gets snagged.
It is a 6AM to 9PM island...i.e. most people get up early and go to bed early. Many bars and resturants close at 9PM (unless they cater to tourists as in Lahaina). This is likely from the agricultural nature of the island, but is also good to know since many boat activities are early rise too, due to the afternoon winds which make the water rough.
Birds, beasts, and bugs:There are several native birds to Hawaii, including the nene (Hawaiian Goose) and many forest and sea birds, and non-native zebra doves (very slow to move), partriges, mynas, and feral or domesticated chickens (which we saw all over). Land mammals you are likely to see include mongoose (to eat the rats), rats (we didn't but I am sure they are around), domestic cats (to eat both), dogs (as pets or feral, we saw many body-surfing pampered pups), bats (native), wild boars, feral sheep and goats, and cattle all over (hence the beef). Introduced lizards included geckos which liked to get into any open air conditioned locale, and a few other tropical species that escaped into the wild. There are also seals, sea turtles, and many kinds of fiddler and burrowing crabs. There are no native land snakes (there are theoreticallly sea snakes but they are extremely, extremely, rare ...never seen one), but an introduced worm snake (size of, and looks like, a worm). It is possible snakes might get loose eventually. Didn't get bit up by flies or mosquitos, but that doesn't mean they aren't around at night.
Agricultural Inspections and Declarations: Arriving and Leaving. Leave fido or fifi at home or they will get quarentined for a long while. Any fruit, plants, animals, etc. you bring in must be declared and may be impounded. Likewise, make sure what you buy to take home can be shipped home, and is stamped for return to the mainland.
Yes, it snows in Maui, there are scrub deserts, and in some places it rains all the time. Maybe all at once. Altitude and orientiation are everything in Maui weather. The Hana region is rainforest, as are the tops of the West Maui Mountains (400 inches of rain a year). Above the clouds, Haleakala Crater/Peak is dry, as is the lee sides of the mountains to the sea (mostly scrub). That said, higher elevations can see snow in the winter, even if a swimsuit is appropriate a sea level. The 'saddle' between the mountains is covered in fields of sugar cane, bannanna, pineapple, and cattle. It is cold up high (i.e. 40 F or less) but warm at sea level (mid 70's-high 80's afternoons, mid 60's to low 70's at night). Have a rain jacket and/or hoodie (nearby) for the cooler/wetter times and locales. If you go on the Hana Hwy, count on rain during some period. There is a cloud layer at around 3500 feet-7000 feet that is chilly and wet too. On the lava rocks and gravel, it will get really hot (over 100 F), so drink lots of water. No matter what, assume you will get lots of solar exposure, so wear appropriate clothing, hats, lip balm, and sunscreen, and keep hydrated.
Rice, Rice, and Macaroni Salad: Just about every meal has the option (or inclusion) of two scoops of steamed white rice, usually accompanied by macaroni salad. Breakfast might also have the option of fried rice under an egg, and may include a dish called loco moco. Anyone who has spent all day working in the sun on a farm (yup, on my grandparents Illinois farm in my case) will appreciate the belly filling nature and flavors of loco moco: eggs, hamburger or fish, brown mushroom gravy, and of course, rice. May also include samin (i.e. fried noodles).
POG and other juices: POG is a wonderful juice combo, that seemed to be everywhere on Maui (and on tap on our charter fishing/snorkelling boat). POG is non-alcoholic drink and is short for Passion fruit, Orange juice, and Guava juice. It is just a shot of rum short of a Mai-tai. Additionally look for Mango juice, Pineapple juice, and Coconut juice/water/milk.
Yes, Coconuts, aka the most dangerous produce in Hawaii, aka Hawaiian brown hail. Your head or your car can be at risk from falling coconuts, which injure/kill more people than sharks in Hawaii. Coconut syrup is offered in lieu of maple syrup in some resturants and is very yummy. The trees are all over so be aware when snoozing or parking a rental car. Coconut products are all over, though like any produce in Hawaii, can not be brought back to the mainland without Agriculture Department stamps of approval/inspection. FYI leave fruits from the mainland out of your baggage/purses/backpacks to Hawaii too. You will get inspected twice at the airport out, and will have to fill out a declaration inbound. Ask for shipping info from any shop you use.
Poi and Taro and Luaus. As they say in Hawaii, you eat until you are tired at a Luau. Luaus feature Kalua pork cooked in a in beach sand assemblage (an imu, just like a clam-bake), and taro root either boiled or boiled and mashed (into poi, think purple potato and you get the idea). In addition to the food, a core element of every luau is a healthy dose of Polynesian culture in the form of traditional dancing and music by those trained in the art. If you don't like pork, that is AOK, as many other meats, fishes, and dishes are served to meet anyones tastes (kids usually get a chicken nugget, fries, hot dog, and burger meal of their own). Get reservations well ahead of time, and look for combo packages with other attractions (like submarine rides, the Maui Aquarium, the Bailey House, Sugar Cane Train, and Maui Tropical Plantation). We went to the one at the Royal Lahaina since we got a five activity package via the Atlantis submarines. Appropriate wear usually is a nice Hawaiian button down short sleave shirt and nice shorts or kakhi pants for men, to Hawaiian style floral sun dresses for women (and follow the flower rules above).Leis are usually provided, but can be added to any leis or necklaces (like my fish hook) you already have.
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Sugar cane and Sugar in general: Sugar cane, while not native to Hawaii, is everywhere, either cultivated, or as ground cover at roadsides. Sugar cane is also chopped into stirers and snacks (to chew, then discard). Cane juice can be found, along with raw sugar. Sugar production used to be an even bigger deal than it is now, so there are leftover factories. There are tours of some of these, including the Alexander and Baldwin museum. There is also a small railroad that travels along the coast, noting sugar plantations and factories.
Whale Watching Season: During the winter, November through April,Humpback whales can be seen from the western shores of the island, really from Lahaina to Makena, as they migrate along the Maui-Lanai channel. There are several good lookout spots along the road to Lahaina from Maalea (Hwy 30, be careful pulling in and out, and avoid the steep dirt and rock). Also, there are many boats that shift to concentrated whale watching during this period. (Want to see the same whales in the summer, head to Alaska, though many offshore trips from California see them too, as we did on a summer freelance trip last year).
Macadamia Nuts are farmed in Hawaii on many spots, and are in pancakes, candy, and many yummy things.
Gifts, fish hooks, tikis, and leis. As per anywhere, seek gifts/souveniers made locally. Check the tags to make sure. Why buy a Hawaiian Shirt made in China? Look for artsts hawking their wares to confirm that you know who made what, when it comes to handcrafts. This especilly goes for Tikis (ours is from an artist in Lahaina who made one, and signed ours, while we watched), Fish Hook necklaces (fyi..these have a meaning...don't wear it if you aren't a serious angler, and choose carefully. Mine comes from a Maui artist at Maalaea...who I met when I bought it, and yes it costs more than the Chinese/Phillipenes made gift shop fodder), Leis, etc. Pay the bit extra to fully take in your surroundings.
Eat local too: Ice cream (yup, there is a Maui brand, Roselani, and it is REALLY good), three cookie makers: Cook Kwees Maui Cookies + The Maui Cookie Lady + Hula Cookies, and coffee ( many Hawaiian varieties and brands), etc. Look for local resturants too such as: Charley's, Tastey Crust, Lulus, Coconut Glen's (who has a thing for the 1960's but makes excellent coconut milk ice 'cream'), Vietnamese Cuisine, Tantes Island Cuisine, Marcos Grill, Kula Lodge, and maybe L+L which is a chain but appropriate and yummy if you don't have one near you, etc. and try to avoid the mega-chains (i.e. the same places you eat at home...). Explore and experiment in your food choices. We wanted to try these, but didn't get to: Leoda's Kitchen and Pie Shop, Mama's Fish House Restaurant, Twin Falls Maui Farm Stand. If there are lots of local people there, it might be worth a try.
This area is not really a high crime area (especially when compared to many mainland USA cities), though it is always good to lock up your stuff, put goodies out of sight, and pay attention anywhere. Don't be afraid to to drive into the various towns in Maui off the high traffic areas to find interesting shops, food, or folks. Don't be afraid to ask questions or strike up conversation (rule #1: remember you are a guest, so it is best to assume you don't know anything). That is how we found many of the resturants above, and many ice cream shops and craft shops (and fishing beaches). There are also dozens of pull offs near the shorline and as a result many 'pocket beaches'. Some are quite scenic, some have good snorkelling and fishing too. A local advised always carrying a whistle if you head into the water in case you get swept out or get into trouble or see something, and that is good advice. Waterproof your stuff too, since most cell phones and cameras are not waterproof. There are also many public trails, though exercise respect of private property. It is best not to stumble around in the dark, so plan accordingly. Also keep that fuel tank at least half full or more, as gas stations are hard to find on many roads (such as the Road to Hana/Hana Hwy, the Halakea Crater Road, or the Hwy 37 loop). Try activities you haven't tried at home, such as taking horseback riding trips, snorkelling trips, fishing(!), hiking trails, surfing lessons, helicopter trips, etc.
NOTE: Check in for boats 30 mins ahead of time and get reservations well ahead for all boat based trips. Many trips book up, though if you call, you can get in sometimes anyhow.
Three core types of fishing: Shore, Sport, and Bottom. Note that the water gets deep VERY fast here, so trolling and bottom fishing trips are usually within a few miles of the shoreline or less. If you fish bottom from boat or shore, expect to loose lures and weights due to the rocky/coral bottom and plan accordingly (i.e. pull up off the bottom, make break away rigs, limit lead use).
Shore fishing includes dunking (using bait), and whipping(using lures). I added Fly Fishing to the shoreline pile too. Since you don't need a license to fish in the ocean, and there are MANY beaches and shoreline access spots, shoreline fishing is a good activity if you already are near the water anyhow. If you need a guide, this guy has a good site and seems to be on the ball, though I didn't use him. It is mostly an ultra-light game of 8lb spinning gear, 1/4oz silver kastmasters and similar sized jigs and spoons, with some surface action at good times on florescent yellow surface poppers. Squid seemed to be a good bait, though I just focused on the kastmasters and flies. The beaches near Maalaea Bay (the boardwalk area) were good on calmer days and evenings for coronetfish, goatfish, wrasses, and the like, though I saw small bonefish and other fishes cruising along the shore. There are mole shrimp and fiddler crabs, and small (1 inch) silversides. On the north side I had very small trevally and needlefish harrass my white streamer flies. Most of my fishing on the shore was 'opportunity' fishing since the trip was not a specific fishing trip. Some areas are QUITE DANGEROUS to wade or walk on. Lava rock can saw-edged when dry, and super-slippery when wet. Cliffs are very dangerous and every year a few fishermen are lost forever from them targeting Giant Trevally (GTs, or ulua) There are a few bait and tackle stores (try them first: West Maui Sports and Fishing Supply and New Maui Fishing Supply and All About Fish for example, ask them for advice too...wish I did), but the 'Marts and 'Authority carry gear too, and the grocery stores carry squid and shrimp that can be used for bait.
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Bottom fishing (by boat): We both fished on the bottom fishing trip on the Aloha Blue Charter Hokua which was VERY un-crowded and worth every penny. If you want to have lots of elbow room, they are reallly good. (We liked them enough to take them on a snorkelling trip too). The crew was professional, knowledgable, patient, and attentive, the boat clean and well equipped (with a restroom with a flush toilet and sink), including POG, ice water, and lemonade on tap (and provided at any request too). They played reggae and other tunes at a very low level on the ship's speaker system. The reefs targeted were toward Lahaina, in 130 feet to 60 feet of water, and the boat trolled to each spot (see sport fishing, below). For bottom fishing, they provided Penn 5500 series spinning reels and ugly stick rods, set up for 15lb mono with a 2 hook rig on 17lb florocarbon with a rubber-band attached 6oz weight, and squid for bait. My wife caught many wrasses, trevally, snappers, and goatfish on the provided gear, and other nailed jobfish, snappers, goatfish, and filefish. The crew biologist identified fish and carefully released undersized and unneeded fish carefully. We had the option of keeping our catch, filleted for our use, but we released them instead (no oven or grill in the hotel). I caught bluefin trevally pretty regularly on my own gear (40lb superbraid on a spinning reel--Saragossa 8000-- and travel boat rod-an Okuma Nomad though I think they were overkill) using a Williamson Benthos 3.5oz chartruese glow jig on rod-length 20lb florocarbon leader (and barbless single hook). Other colors a no-go, though I would bet a 1oz jighead/soft plastic like a gulp is florescent yellow, would also be deadly (or rigged as a school rig). Can't say enough about how much we liked the Aloha Blue Charters Hokua crew and boat. I have fished everywhere on boats all over, and they are a class act.
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Sportfishing: Sportfishing for us was on the bottom fishing and snorkelling trips between spots, but the rigs were standard for Hawaii: Penn International 50/80lb class gear, chrome jet head 8in to 14in lures in blue/green/purple, outriggers, and a Hawaiian downrigger setup. Was a 5 rod spread, 2 on the 'riggers, two hawaiian downriggers with wire line, 2lb weights and cone head trolling lures, and a far out rod set way back. While this trip was during a full moon/high pressure day (so no bites, I didn't expect any given the conditions), they say they have a 75% hit rate on the trolling gear. Dedicated sportfishing charters out of the same harbor got a few wahoo (ono). I advised they set a shotgun rod out next time too (close, in the wake, a large black/purple jet head or trembler style lure). Most boats usually get skipjack, yellowfin tuna, barracuda, amberjack, mahi-mahi, and aforementioned wahoo, in addition to 'the man in the blue suit' blue marlin, and spearfish.
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Snorkelling/Diving:
NOTE that Benjamin's Coral Reefs is a good kids guide to what you might see.
A grown up version is either the Reef Fish ID Tropical Pacific Book by Allen etc. or Shore Fishes of Hawaii by Randall. (Or Fishbase of course).
Molokini Crater and Turtle Town(Makena Bay/Maluaka Beach to Ahihi Bay...where ever the turtles are at) are the two most popular trip destinations, though there are many snorkelable inshore reefs near the beaches on Hwy 310 and south Kihei road (we saw tons of turtles there too and at Baldwin Beach Park), and there are shore-reachable marine preserves such as Ahihi Kinau Natural Area Reserve and Honolua-Mokule'ia Bay Marine Life Conservation District. Our snorkelling trip of the Hokua included a continetal breakfast with fresh pasteries and fruit, coffee, POG, and lunch with sandwich making breads, cheeses, meats, and toppings, and beer and mai-tais (and juices again).
Molokini Crater: Our first stop on the Hokua, and while it had lots of other boats and snorkellers there, also had lots of good coral, red sea urchins and fish from LOTS of black durgons, and butterflyfish, to triggerfish, goatfish, tangs, surgeonfish, unicornfish, and emperors.
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Turtle Town: Our second stop on the Hokua, we saw a turtle, lots of durgons again and chubs, and triggerfish and butterflyfish and unicornfish, and pink-tailed durgons, though this spot was deeper, wavier, and colder.
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We saw red/pink sand beaches,tan/brown sand beaches, black sand beaches, pebble beaches, and round rock beaches. The round rock beaches make an interesting clacking sound when the waves pull back. Many had deep water nearby for strong currents offshore, many had coral or rock shelves off the beach, and some had big surf in the wind. Some have lifeguards, but the vast majority do not. We also saw a beach with shark warning signs posted near Launiupoko Point. You can fish off almost all the shoreline and beaches, with exceptions clearly posted on signs, though if it is a crowded swimming/surfing area, I would find a different beach to fish. Give fishermen clear room and watch for their lines. Kayaks, windsurfing, and of course all forms of surfing are at many beaches. Take great care going into and pulling out of the numerous shore access pull offs along the highways to avoid car accidents. You might also see tents and campers along the shore (legal or illegal), and if so, be respectful of their tent area and privacy. Shore access is state law in Hawaii, and even the poshest resorts have to provide a parking area or walkway (posted with blue signs).
Kanaha Beach Park To get a first hit of the beach, take a swing out of the OGG airport to Kanaha Beach Park, which is popular with windsurfers, has a nice red sand beach, and looked like a good fishing beach though I caught nothing here.
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Maalaea Bay along N. Kihei road, near the Kealia Pond boardwalk was our favorite swimming and fishing beach, due to light waves, and nice pink/tan sand, and good fishing. There are several accesses all the way past Kihei to Makena Park, and multiple state parks. We found one spot with an old underwater wall that was overgrown with seaweed and had lots of turtles feeding on it. Look for similar features to find turtles. Follow the road south and east along the water to find more spots.
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Waianapanapa State Park: has many sea cliffs, a blowhole, and a nice small black sand beach with big waves. If nothing else, it is very, very, pretty. It is near Hana, and not too far away from there, are a series of unnamed beaches and Koki Beach Park and dozens of 'pocket' beaches along the Hana Highway.
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Hwy 30/Honoapiilani Hwy: From Ukumehame Beach State Park all the way to DT Fleming Beach Park near Kapalua are tons of pull-offs, Beach Parks, and Shoreline Access spots, of many types, many very pretty. Most (almost all) have no lifeguards, and you need to look at the signs for warnings (like sharks, rip current, etc....see below for pics of a shark sign). Lahaina splits the route.
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Kahului Harbor (beach area): Has a beach behind several hotels, and rows of shallow rocks that have a veriety of teeny fishes and porcupinefish for a snorkeller. Fishing-wise, very small trevally, flagtails, and needlefish were all I got to bite this time, on a fly, though a small chunk of shrimp on a #6 hook would likely find many nibblers. The bottom is rock and coral covered past the sand. A site for outrigger canoe races too (the course has a row of flags).
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Paia:
This town is the gateway to the Hana highway and has lots of eateries, bars, a sugar museum, and a beach. It is home to Charley's where we ate once for breakfast, and again another day for late dinner (and live music).
Hana Highway and on
Once Hwy 36 hits Hwy360 (Hana Hwy) you will notice the road becomes like a loose string randomly tossed, with many single lane bridges, yield signs, and very sharp corners. Twin Falls Maui Farm Stand is about the beginning of the twisty parts. The road is often wet with rain or fog, and you will be periodically rained upon as you go forward. You will likely also encounter lots of traffic. The rain is AOK, as it is part of the experience (and without a good rain, there are no good waterfall pictures). The driver needs to pay attention, but passengers can feel free to oooh and aaah at the spectacular rainforest scenery, waterfalls, steep verdant canyons that go to the deep blue ocean, and other sights. Plan on LOTS of time. If you leave Paia at 9AM, plan or being at Hana around 2PM or so. Make lots of stops along the way at the many pull-offs to take pictures and just look about. Some side roads lead to seaside towns, and there are many interesting state parks and state waysides. There are more than a few marked trails. Along the way are many small fruit stands with honor boxes (i.e. the stand is unattended, and you can grab a piece of fruit and deposit the cash payment in the little box on the side). This is essentially backyard produce, so wash before eating, and you may be chancing. Note that this produce can not go back to the mainland, but is quite yummy. There are also many little shops that are attended, and one you MUST hit is Coconut Glen's place (about half and a little more of the way to Hana). It is ecclectic and has wonderful handmade coconut milk-based, dairy free, ice cream.There is also wonderful coconut candy, and other delightful tidbits. Stay to eat your frozen treats from a coconut shell with a coconut spoon (you can't eat and drive on this road anyhow or you will end up likethis car). Kaumahina State Wayside is one fun wayside, as is Honomanu Park (and beach), then stop and hike at the Keanae Arboretum, since it is both free and wonderful. Right past the Arboretum is a series of stands, cafes and food places for lunch if you are so inclined. Wailua Valley State Wayside, and Puaa Kaa State Wayside follow. Once you hit the side road to Waianapanapa State Park (see above..a wonderful set of rocks, beach, ocean, and jungle all at once), you are really in Hana, though a series of parks, hotels, and resturants follow, and a gas station around where 330 and 360 join. If you are gutsy, not in a rental car (officially) and have at least a half a day left, you can decide to finish the loop, or decide to turn around at or before Koki Beach Park.
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Ranches and High Country
n.b. DO NOT CHANCE THIS ROAD IN THE DARK OR TAKE A RENTAL CAR! Lets say you are on a tour bus (recommended, see below) or in a SUV (not a rental) with good ground clearance, los of gas, and a very good and sober driver, if so, you might take the wild ride and insane scenery that follows beyond Hana. Hwy 330 starts again winding widely, and definitely once you get near Kipahulu Point Light, you hit hwy 31 and the real fun begins. The road that will follow makes the rest of the Hana hwy look like a four-lane mainland interstate, as the road goes from unmarked super-bumpy asphalt to rock and dirt, with just enough room for the tour bus to make it alone. There are few, rusted guard rails, and mostly it is just a dirt ribbon or poorly paved path and doom on either side. The scenery however is desolate and spectacular all at once. The rain forest subsides, and lava fields and gulches as in the California deserts flow to the super-blue crashing waves. The beaches are secluded and trecherous, with wicked currents and bashing waves (and fishing if you are so inclined and have time). Lots of cliffs to water, and strong winds. If you brought a rental here, note that the car company will not come get you. There are ranches, and micro-towns, and old churches and monuments. If you pass far enough you will begin to again turn north , you will hit Hwy 37 which will take you back to civilization, though on the way is Maui's Winery up in the high country. At this point, take a deep breath as the road is now a bit better. Further down hwy 37 and you eventually hit a series of coffee houses, roadsides, and resturants, and you are essentially back to normal roads. Follow 37 enough and you will be back on Hwy 36 near Kahului.
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Parking: Look for the free 3hr lot near Front and Prison Streets, and several pay spots. The boats/harbor are all along Wharf and Canal streets off Front street. There are clothing and gift shops, artisan booths and tables, cafes, ice cream and cookie shops, and bar/grill/resturants all over between the Harbor and Wainee Street. The Bayan Tree Park is worth visiting for craft fairs and local artists too. It is a bit touristy here. You can get fishing and snorkelling trips of all types here, and parasailing if you so desire.
Atlantis Submarine Tour. Look for the package deals on their website too. This was great fun, and was recommended to us by my brother and wife. We booked it well ahead of time and got the 5 attraction package, which included the Luau and Ocean Center. Check in 30 minutes early, and use the potty before you go (the sub doesn't have one). The Hour and a half ride wnt down to 130 feet on a wreck and a few good coral reefs. The biologist in me noted the loss of lots of coral around Lahaina likely due to either sloppy anchoring or really bad storms, so I recommend they use the coral rocks on shore to rebuild their reefs and improve their fishery.
Bayan Tree Park: It is a naturally shaded park courtesy of a monsterously big bayan tree (with daughter trunks and runners). The tree itself, planted in 1878 from India, is amazing. On holidays and weekends it is an artist/craft fair locale.
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Maui Ocean Center- Aquarium, Shops, Harbor, Fishing Boats, and Aloha Blue Charters Hokua at Slip 37
Maui Ocean Center is a pretty fair aquarium, and focuses on local fishes and turtles. It has a large open water tank and tunnel, and many smaller reef oriented tanks and outdoor features, and large gift shop. Count on 2-3 hrs to walk through it, touch the starfish, and see the turtles and sharks. It has a massive gift shop and artists in the aquarium itself to explain the history of traditional Maui fishing. There is ample free parking near the entrance, and lots of shops and cafes that join it to the harbor. We loved the Hula cookie/ice cream shop (with Hawaiian Shaved ice) behind the Ocean Center, get the Hula cookie/Roselani ice cream sandwich. There is also a little lunch place and snack shop in the Center itself.
Boats and Harbor: We booked the Aloha Blue Charters Hokua for snorkelling and fishing, but there are many snorkelling and fishing boats here, sportfishing dedicated, and bottom fishing boats. There is a bar and dive shop at the harbor level. Take a walk by the boats around noon or 4-5pm (we saw the Rascal tack up some nice wahoo) to see the fishing boats bring in their catch. There is a little box office on the harbor near the boats (in front of slip 30ish) that can book you on any of them, including the Hokua. There is free parking all over, look for spots without signs. You can fish the harbor rocks too, though we didn't.
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Situated in Wailuku off main (a good chance to eat at Tasty Crust fyi), is a 19th century former Girls School and good museum of Maui and Hawaiian history. It is small, but has lots of content on the walls and in cases, and some intact antiques. Notable was the dog tooth lei, many Hawaiian artifacts, outrigger canoe, history of the Hawiian Royalty and Lineage, thick walls, and old home movies playing in a viewing room. The old kitchen and bedroom provide a glance into a not so wonderful 19th century past. Worth spending time and absorbing.
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Take the tram tour, and the more adventurous might decide to zip line here. The Plantation itself is free, with a large gift shop, fruit stand, and gardens. It is a working farm, with banannas, coffee, and other tropical fruits. Down 30 between Wailuku and Maalaea.
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If you are looking for heavenly views and amazing sunsets or sunrises, this is your spot. The crater is at 10,023 feet above sea level, and the thin air is very cold and very dry, with a nice set of visitor centers all the way up. Count on over 1.5 hrs and a good chunk of gas to get to the top from sea level, and know how to shift on the way down or risk break failure. The way (Hwy 378)is well marked and features many hairpins and pull offs. Look for nene and other birds, but the driver needs to concentrate and keep sober all the way up and down. I found it a fun drive, but then I like that kind of thing. If that is not for you, many tour buses are offered in Maui (some of the same do the 37 to 31 to 330 to 360 Hana loop too...we saw Valley Isle Excursions buses on both roads, even roads you wouldn't think could handle a tour bus). If a drive isn't good enough, we also saw cyclists do the drive up and down too, and helicopters can swing over the crater on their trips. On the way you you will pass from temps in the 70's F or 80's F through clouds and thick fog to cold, dry, windy air in the 40's-30's F. Bring a coat, you will need it. Bring a camera, you will want it (though keep it warm and dry or it will freeze up). The sunset we saw was a visage of heaven itself, with the red-orange sun illuminating cloud-scapes below, and the full moon behind us. You will be far from alone for either sunset or sunrise too. On the way down we splurged to eat at the Kula Lodge just before closing.
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